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It's never too late, as the vineyards of 103 year old Baron Bruemmer bear out. The Baron was born in the Baltic Russian province of Livonia, settled later in Zurich, and made his money in banking. In 1962 he moved to Portugal where he pursued his love of Arab horses and created a stud farm. Only at 96 did he wake up from an operation and decide to plant a vineyard. Now there are three! All are cooled by the Atlantic Ocean and morning mists and so produce wines with a delicious tang reminiscent of the sea. This one is pure Sauvignon, aged on its lees to lend it weight, and has brisk melon and asparagus notes and a stony freshness. Created by Jorge Rosa Santos, this white is very appetising - perfect on its own, or with salads or fish dishes.

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Ted Nelson

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